Vacaville Patio Construction – Basic Steps

  1. The first step is to calculate the patio’s size or area in square feet. This will be taken into account when estimating the materials required later. With a can of white spray paint, mark off the area, slightly larger to allow for paver edge restraints and a footing base at the patio’s borders. Click over here now Vacaville Patio Construction
  2. Estimate the materials required, then select desired pavers. Most paver and concrete suppliers will tell you how many per square foot their products require. Estimate base material and sand: 1 1/2 yards of gravel (3/4 ” quarry process) per 100 square feet will support a 4″ compacted base; sand – a fine mason sand, about 1/4 the amount of the gravel base should suffice; having more is always preferable to having insufficient base material.
  3. Digging and preparing a good paver base is important and will take the most time. Use a shovel or loader if available, and follow local digging laws to avoid any buried cable. Make the base 6″-8″ below the desired height of the patio; the pavers will take 2″ of that, so the gravel base under the pavers will be 4″- 6″. Use a landscape fabric under the gravel if possible to improve support and protect the base from soil. Due to poor soil or recently disturbed soil from new house construction, some areas may require a deeper foundation. Then, using a wheelbarrow, shovel, or loader, bring in the gravel base and rake it out to an approximate level.
  4. To get an even and sloped foundation for water runoff, grade the patio base with a 2X4. Slightly slope to where desired water should run, using a quarter bubble technique on a 4 foot level to ensure proper sloping. Larger patios may necessitate the use of two 2X4s, which would have to be nailed together. Use a modified 2X 4 to grade along the border of your patio if it’s next to a concrete driveway or bordering concrete or timbers (see picture on left). Take your time getting level, and then re-grade once the compaction is complete (next step).
  5. To get a good solid base for the pavers, use a plate compactor or similar compaction device. To make the gravel pack easier, wet it down with a garden hose if it’s too dry. After each compaction, grade once more before the job is finished.
  6. Fine grade with mason sand in the same manner as the previous grading; this final grade evens out the rough gravel grade and provides a nice, even base for the pavers. This is only a quarter-inch or less of sand to maintain the proper grade, not an inch as you may have heard, because the proper grade and slope have already been established with an easy-to-work-with gravel base.
  7. Start from a point or the foundation of the house to allow for the best looking pattern. For pattern ideas, see the resource page. Get the pavers as tight as possible. If the patio area has curves or obstacles, pavers will need to be cut with a saw and diamond paver blade. Cutting may not be necessary for simple square patios. Use a measuring technique or measure with the paver in place and mark to cut pavers.
  8. Finally, for added strength, use a plastic edge restraint and secure it with spikes spaced about 2′ apart or less. Then sweep with the same mason sand, the finer the better, into the cracks and secure the pavers with a dry mortar of sorts. The sand will be easier to sweep in if it is dry. Use the compactor to compress the patio, allowing the sand to slip more easily through the cracks. I would recommend putting cardboard or vinyl under the compactor to avoid damaging the pavers and to reduce the vibrating noise. I bungie cord cardboard to the bottom of the compactor, so it would wear down in a few uses, so it will fit with a single usage. Sweep sand until the paver joints will no longer take it. Last but not least, fill black soil along the edge to help and landscape as desired, either with grass or rock (this covers the plastic edging).